Retinol – the gold standard in the skincare world which is one of the most powerful ingredients used in cosmetology and especially in dermatology. With the arrival of autumn, the number of its users increases and the fascination with this versatile ingredient begins. Although it can be used throughout the year, in summer, due to prolonged exposure to the sun, many decide to take a break from using this ingredient because it is extremely sensitive to the sun, but also leaves the skin itself more sensitive to UV radiation. Of course, if you regularly use products with a protective factor and reapply them according to the recommendations, retinol can be used without any problems even during the sunniest days.
However, when talking about retinol, many are confused by the various names and forms associated with its name - namely, "retinol" is the name for the (whole) vitamin molecule And, while the name "retinoids" is a collective name for pure retinol, derivatives/ retinol esters (retinyl palmitate and acetate), retinaldehyde (retinal), retinoic esters acids and retinoic acid as the most powerful form of retinoid, which is why it is only available with a doctor's prescription. But we still mostly encounter retinol over the counter, which provides strong and comprehensive skin renewal that includes all layers and structures of the skin. It has been used in dermatology for more than 60 years, and is one of the best-researched ingredients with numerous studies proving its effectiveness and versatility.
The strength of retinol and its derivatives depends, of course, on the concentration you use, but also on the form of retinoid itself. Namely, in the skin we have enzymes that convert all forms of retinoid into a biologically active form - the already mentioned retinoic acid. The process itself takes place in several steps, which again depends on the form. of vitamin A that you have decided on. Retinal esters (retinyls) need three steps - first they are converted into retinol, then retinal and finally into retinoic acid, which is then used by our skin. In short, the more conversion steps, the lower the irritant potential of the product. Thus, retinal esters are mainly used only for antioxidant purposes and do not have a large effect on visible photodamage or inflammation. processes (acne). Furthermore, the conversion of retinol takes place in two steps, retinal (retinaldehyde) in one step, and prescription drugs (tretinoin, isotretinoin) do not require conversion and are essentially a direct form of retinoic acid. As mentioned, they are used upon approval and in agreement with doctors, in the form of topical preparations or oral therapy, and often have a high irritating potential and side effects.
How does retinol work and what is it used for?
As a powerful antioxidant, it visibly acts on the first signs of aging such as wrinkles, loss of elastin and collagen, regenerates the skin, corrects damage caused by unprotected exposure to the sun, normalizes sebum production and the size of the sebaceous gland, thus acting on acne, blackheads and enlarged pores. Prescription products are indispensable in the treatment of numerous conditions and diseases such as psoriasis or the aforementioned acne.
The result is significant reduction of fine and deep wrinkles, tighter, brighter, more even skin, better tone, renewed texture, color and shine.
The very principle of action is as follows - our skin cells contain receptors that "react" to retinoic acid. When it enters the cells, the process of skin renewal begins, which is characterized by the change of the cells of the epidermis, the upper layer of the skin, i.e. the production of new and young cells, simultaneously reconstructing collagen in the deeper, dermal layers of the skin.
SURROUNDING CARE:
Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum: Ginseng+Retinal
Eye serum with a light creamy texture that glides like silk on the skin. It helps reduce wrinkles on the sensitive skin around the eyes with a combination of ginseng and retinal. To make it as effective as possible, the formula also contains niacinamide, glycerin and cholesterol.
Tocobo Collagen Brightening Eye Gel Cream
Gel cream for the eye area enriched with 81% lavender flower water, imbued with retinol and plant collagen and panthenol. Lavender flower water moisturizes and vitalizes the area around the eyes. Plant collagen helps maintain skin elasticity, and retinol removes wrinkles.
Retinol is suitable for all skin types except extremely sensitive skin prone to rosacea - in this case, a doctor should be consulted. The use of retinoids is also not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
It needs to be introduced gradually, pay attention to choosing the concentration and form of retinoid itself, and we can see the first results, in the form of a more even complexion and a reduction in sebum secretion, after a few weeks of use . For those more specific, corrective effects, it will be necessary to wait up to three months of continuous use. It should certainly be pointed out that a skin cleansing phase (so-called purging) is possible due to adaptation to retinol, which can last between 2-4 weeks. It is recommended to use it twice a week, in order for the skin to get used to it and minimize the possibility of irritation, and after that, gradually, depending on the reaction of the skin, increase the frequency of use. As it is extremely unstable and sensitive to oxygen and light, it is necessary to use it in the evening routine with mandatory photoprotection during the day (SPF 30 or higher).
FOR BEGINNERS:
NUMEE Low Key Winner Delicate Smoothing Serum
Serum formulated with encapsulated retinyl esters, ensures the gradual release of the active ingredient into the skin. Its combination with niacinamide and a mixture of natural extracts makes it less irritating to the skin while maintaining its effectiveness. /b>
COSRX Retinol 0.1 Cream
Formulated using 0.1% stabilized, pure retinol for early wrinkle care. Reduces the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles, increases skin elasticity, improves skin radiance, hydrates and nourishes the skin, works on acne.
FOR EXPERIENCE:
Serum with a high content of pure retinol (0.3%), bakuchiol (1%) and niacinamide (3%). It works on the main signs of aging and photoaging such as wrinkles, lack of firmness, blemishes and lifelessness skin. Improves skin texture, acts on sebum regulation and improves skin tone.
COSRX Retinol 0.5 Oil
Highly concentrated 0.5% pure retinol. It reduces the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles, increases the elasticity of the skin, improves the glow of the skin, hydrates and nourishes the skin, works on acne. For intermediate retinol users who are looking for a highly concentrated "enhancer" of youth.
What can/cannot be combined with?
Despite numerous myths, recent research shows that retinol can be successfully used with other active ingredients such as acids and other antioxidants (vitamin C, niacinamide). One ingredient will not cancel out the other or make it less effective. However, the general consensus is that at dinner when retinol or one of its derivatives is used, other active ingredients should not be used due to the increased possibility of irritation. As retinol is an extremely powerful ingredient, the additional active preparation will most likely cause skin irritation, however, if your skin is resistant or needs such a routine, there are no obstacles in terms of the effectiveness of the product.
