Returning from annual vacation and the sea often brings unwelcome guests - spots that are more pronounced due to (unprotected) exposure to the sun, and due to the arrival of autumn and less sunlight, a "grey" and lifeless complexion appears at the same time. How to approach this problem?
The three most common forms of discoloration are melasma, hyperpigmentation and procedural erythema caused by acne and damage caused by prolonged exposure to the sun. Most of the stains are extremely "stubborn", they stay for a long time, and their treatment requires consistency and, of course, time. We always advise treating the entire surface of the face instead of smaller, localized areas because the ultimate goal is to even out the complexion of the entire surface of the face. We could say that one of the most effective and well-known products for treating discoloration are vitamin serums, which are essentially potent antioxidants (depending on the concentration and form used) that can be combined for a better effect. We must note that some forms of discoloration will not be able to be removed, or even alleviated with over-the-counter products, and it is necessary to seek the help of a doctor who will advise the best form of therapy. Here we are primarily referring to melasma, which appears very suddenly, extremely often due to hormonal fluctuations in the middle of pregnancy, and mostly affects a larger area of the skin. After the imbalance of hormones, a certain percentage recedes on its own, while for the majority this condition requires consultation with a dermatologist and laser therapy.
The three most common vitamins used for spots are vitamin A (retinol, or retinoids), vitamin C and its derivatives, and vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide. It is possible to combine all three listed active ingredients or focus on just one - it all depends on your skin type and skin tolerance. It is also important which form of vitamin C and vitamin A is used. While the pure forms provide the best results, they often come with unstable formulations and noticeable irritating potential. Derivatives of these vitamins are mostly stabilized forms, the formulations in which they are found are longer lasting and safer, and come with little or no irritating potential. We can say that retinoids provide comprehensive care and act on a number of skin conditions, such as the first signs of skin aging, irregularities in the form of acne and, of course, an uneven complexion. Retinol and its derivatives accelerate cell turnover and thus help reduce the visibility of blemishes and reveal, literally, a healthy glow to the skin. We must also mention the plant analogue of retinol, bakuchiol, which many call natural retinol. Recently, you will very often come across serums and creams that contain a combination of both ingredients that work synergistically for enhanced effect and reduction of irritations.
The second vitamin is vitamin C, one of the best-researched ingredients in general with amazing skin benefits. This powerful antioxidant helps to even out the complexion, but it also stimulates collagen synthesis, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. The pure form of this vitamin, ascorbic acid, is extremely unstable, and products with this ingredient generally have a short shelf life. But the benefits it brings are unquestionable, and if you find a good product with this ingredient, we advise you to stick with it because the results will certainly not fail.
Its derivative, ethyl ascorbic acid (3-0-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) is one of the most stable derivatives of vitamin C in general, which brings all the benefits of classic ascorbic acid with a different pH required for activity, and which is suitable for use in sensitive and reactive skin. It has significantly increased stability, but also better availability and therefore longer-lasting effectiveness. It inhibits the activity of tyrosinase and prevents the synthesis of melanin in the skin, thus preventing the formation and strengthening of the visibility of spots. We can say that she specializes in discolorations and the problem of uneven skin tone. It accelerates collagen synthesis, provides an anti-inflammatory effect, acts as an antioxidant and helps reduce the effect of external factors on the skin (especially UV radiation, i.e. photoprotective effect, which is why this type of serum is recommended to be used in the morning with SPF).
As a third option, if one of the previously mentioned ingredients did not suit you, is vitamin B3, or niacinamide. This versatile ingredient is used in smaller concentrations as a humectant (1-2%), while in concentrations from 4 to even 20% it is used as a brightening, active ingredient. It should certainly be emphasized that it is an ideal ally for oily skin prone to acne because it additionally acts on excessive sebum, reduces it, purifies pores and visually reduces them, thus mitigating the appearance of irregularities such as acne, comedones and clogged pores. Therefore, if you have spots and some of the aforementioned problems, niacinamide will be a great choice for you. It is usually used in concentrations of 5 to 10%, and there are also concentrated serums with 20% that then act on the first signs of skin aging, especially on sagging pores , the so-called. loose pores that appear with age due to the loss of collagen and other building blocks of the skin.
We believe that specific examples of products are still the most useful for you, so below we highlight a product with retinol, vitamin C and niacinamide that you can use in your routine and thus have an effect on an uneven complexion. We will divide products with retinol and its derivatives into two groups, those with lower concentrations, ideal for beginners, and those for slightly more experienced users. For beginners, the ideal choice is COSRX Retinol 0.1 Cream , an evening cream with 0.1% retinol that, after an adjustment period of a week or two, you can use daily in your evening routine. Another such product is Numee LOW-KEY WINNER Delicate Smoothing Serum , a mild fluid texture serum with retinyl palmitate, retinol ester and niacinamide for a gentle effect. For slightly more experienced users, there isNumee BONUS XP Pro Skin Renewal Serum, which is based on 0.3% pure retinol with bakuchiol and niacinamide for enhanced action.
Vitamin C serums for advanced correction and people who do not have sensitive skin are COSRX Vitamin C 13 Serum and COSRX Vitamin C 23 Serum , which are based on the pure form of vitamin C in concentrations of 13 and 23%. We recommend them for slightly more resistant skin, and they can be used during the day, where they will increase photoprotection and bring antioxidant effects, or during the night, where they will stimulate the processes of skin renewal and construction.
For a slightly milder effect and products with vitamin C derivatives, we recommend Beauty of Joseon Light on Serum Centella + Vita C , which combines the power of this vitamin with the natural extract of Centella Asiatica for an additional soothing effect. For a natural source of vitamin C along with dog-thorn extract, a great choice is KAINE Vita Drop Serum, which is a multivitamin serum for comprehensive skin care.
We will present serums with niacinamide in gradual concentrations of 5, 15 and 20%. The viral Korean brand AXIS-Y brings a Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum based on 5% niacinamide and natural ingredients to gradually even out the complexion and alleviate damaged texture. COSRX Niacinamide 15 Serum brings a more specific concentration of 15% for advanced correction of even the first signs of skin aging, while the powerful Isntree Hyper Niacinamide 20 Serum with exceptional 20% niacinamide was created for extremely problematic skin that did not respond to previous treatments.
As we have already mentioned, the treatment of discolorations should be approached with great patience, because they are one of the most difficult conditions to correct, however, with the right approach and daily support in the form of sun protection, their visibility can be significantly reduced and, just as importantly, prevented , so that their appearance would not even occur!
