Vitamin C is one of the best researched and most effective vitamins you can apply topically. Long-term use has shown a significant improvement in the problem of the first signs of aging, correction of uneven skin tone and, in general, restoration of skin quality.
Pure vitamin C is called ascorbic acid (ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid), it is the most effective form of vitamin C , but it is extremely unstable, and because of this, we have recently encountered more and more derivatives of this vitamin, i.e. its derivatives such as 3- About Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.
PURE VITAMIN C
Vitamin C, as the most abundant antioxidant naturally present in our skin, is most often used in concentrations of 5 to 20%, where it targets numerous first signs of aging - from the loss of elastin and collagen, through wrinkles and fine lines to photodamage caused by unprotected or excessive exposure to the sun.
You can find it in somewhat lower concentrations, from 0.3 to 2%, where it also offers benefits such as evening out the complexion and reducing the visibility of various spots or supporting the supply of this antioxidant in our skin. As we have already mentioned, it is extremely unstable (which is why the most common shelf life for serums with pure vitamin C is about 3 months from opening) and is sensitive to UV radiation, which is why you are looking for packaging that protects it as well as possible . They must be opaque, and the product should be in contact with air as little as possible.
Vitamin C oxidizes over time, which you can recognize by its dark yellow or orange color - such a product is no longer effective, it can additionally cause irritation and is not suitable for use. What you can do to protect the vitamin C serum/cream you have applied to your face is to use products with a sun protection factor (SPF) . In fact, it is vitamin C that is the ideal supplement to SPF because it is a powerful antioxidant that enhances its action . In order to be extra sure of the stability of formulations with vitamin C, look for vitamin E (tocopherol) and ferulic acid (ferulic acid) in the list of ingredients , which, in addition to being antioxidants in their own right, stabilize vitamin C and enhance its action.
At the same time, despite older studies that "disapprove" the use of vitamin C with retinol and niacinamide, it is safe to use with both ingredients, in fact, it works synergistically and can target numerous skin conditions and achieve the desired results faster. Of course, the concentrations and frequency and schedule of application during the day should be adjusted to the condition and type of the skin, as well as to its tolerance.
VITAMIN C DERIVATIVES
We should certainly mention vitamin C derivatives as an option if the pure form did not suit you or caused irritation. The current hit is 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid , an extremely stable form that has shown an exceptional preventive effect on discolorations and evens out the complexion. What is interesting about this form is that topical application turns it into pure vitamin C in the upper layers of the skin . This process is somewhat slower, so this derivative is more suitable for sensitive skin . Also, it works at a slightly higher pH, closer to that of our skin, which further reduces the possibility of negative reactions. Due to its stability, slightly lower concentrations are needed, so it is usually found in products between 0.5-5%.
Furthermore, we have the extremely interesting Ascorbyl Glucoside – vitamin C which is combined with the sugar glucose. Glucose is derived from natural sources, such as rice, while vitamin C is synthetic. When applied, it also turns into pure vitamin C, again we have a process that is gradual, but here it is interesting that at the same time, stocks of this antioxidant are created in the skin, which provides longer-term benefits.
Lastly, we have Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – another stable form of vitamin C which, due to extremely similar effects, is also called an analogue of pure vitamin C. When applied to the skin, it works with enzymes present in the skin, which then turn it into ascorbic acid. A somewhat fascinating fact is that, unlike pure vitamin C, it is soluble in oils, which allows it to better penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin, where it then cooperates with naturally occurring vitamin E. This also allows it to offer better antioxidant protection, especially to the building blocks of the skin. in somewhat deeper layers such as ceramides and cholesterol.
As we already emphasized at the beginning, this vitamin is truly one of the most effective that you can use on your skin, it will restore your skin's shine, firmness and vitality, it will act synergistically with the protective factor in order to prolong the youthful appearance of the skin. It's up to you to decide which form and concentration you want and enjoy all the benefits that this powerful antioxidant brings.
